Here's a trick that can save your arms from sailing back without a harness, and possibly to keep sailing even with a busted harness buckle
Remove buckle, slide belt through belt loop (hope yours has one), then attach the broken buckle back to the belt to stop the belt from sliding back through the belt loop. (I didn't remember this when mine broke at the Gorge).
a. If the outgoing arm broke, simply sail back in on the good side.
b. If the incoming arm broke, detach boom, flip it over, and sail back.
c. If an arm and a tail broke, you can still make a whole side to sail back in. Assuming the broken tail and arm are on opposite sides, pull out the broken tail and put the good tail into the side of the good arm. you now have a whole side, though the broken tail piece may be sticking out weird. Flip boom, as needed, to sail in.
d. If you break both arms, or both tails, hope you're not too far out for the swim in. I suppose if you know some old school freestyle, and have a floaty board, you could sit on your board, hold the mast with one hand, and the foot of the sail with the other hand, and sail in. Might tear up your sail though.
There are also all sorts of attachment devices for keys, downhaul tools, etc. I have been using one attached to my harness belt for my key. There are also waterproof cases for cell phones and radios.
Take a peek sometime. There are a lot of really neat items in there that may work for you.
1) Remove the tubes from the front end. The new grip will actually go up into the front end a little so scribe around the tubes where the old grip ends. This mark will be referred to later.
2) With a razor blade, scraper, exacto knife, or other sharp instrument, and with a lot of patience, start at one end and scrape off the old grip. This is the slow step. Scrape down to the old glue as this is hard to scrape. The rubber does not come off cleanly but it does come off. Remove all of the old grip material, leaving some of the old glue. This can be sanded off with 60 grit paper. Some of the old glue can probably be left on but I remove all of it so I get a smoother surface. You can also use an organic solvent like gasoline, trichloroethylene, or acetone. I wiped the tubes with it to clean it up but these chemicals can be a little harsh on your skin and the environment. Some people will actually soak the tubes in the above solvents if they have some container large enough that's not made out of plastic. And not all gloves will protect you either. Some will dissolve.
3) Cut the new grip material to length to fit the area to be covered. The grips in the first kit I bought were a little short while the ones in the second were about the right length. It helps to unroll the material and let it lay out for a while to keep it from curling back up.
4) Starting at one end, cover the new grip with the contact cement supplied with the grip. I've also used industrial type cement. Apply it up to where the line was scribed in #1. Lay it on pretty heavy. Don't worry about small lumps. We'll take care of them later. The cement dries in about 1 millisecond but don't brush back over it or it may pull off. Try to cover the first time being careful not to leave dry spots. Once dry, the cement will only stick to itself. This is referred to as a cohesion as opposed to adhesion. No, there won't be a test.
5) Repeat #4 for the boom tubes.
6) With the grip material lying flat, lay the tube with the scribed line up to the edge of the grip material with the rear end of the tube raised. Try to lay the tube down onto the grip keeping it in the center of the rubber. This will keep the final seam on the inside of the boom.
7) Going back to the front end, wrap the grip around the boom on one side first. Press down with the palm rather than the finger tips to keep out as much air as possible. Press firmly at the edge to get a really good bond. This edge will be important later. Continue down the length of the boom.
8) Using a new razor blade, cut a 45 degree bevel down the length of the grip where it is bonded to the boom all the way to the end. Along this bevel apply contact cement.
9) Again, using palm action, roll the grip around the tube, overlapping the bevel, along the length of the tube. Go back and press firmly over bevel to make a good seal.
10) Use a razor blade to trim excess material, leaving as little extra as possible.
11) Sand this raised strip with 60 grit paper util smooth. Excess glue will also sand off. You should be left with only a barely visible thin line. If you feel the seam you probably haven't sanded enough.
12) Press down on any lumps of cement under the grip with your fingers. It should smooth out easily.
13) Reassemble booms to front end. Grip should slip under edge of front end. Attach harness lines and rear end. Just add water, wind, and waves.